Backpacking Mount Whitney- Trail Guide, Packing List & How to Train

Summiting Mount Whitney was a dream that seemed almost impossible when I first set my sights on hiking the tallest mountain in the contiguous United States! Between obtaining a permit from the permit lottery, training for the hike, and figuring out the logistics of backpacking Mount Whitney, it seemed very overwhelming at first! If you’re feeling the same way, this guide will walk you through getting a permit (and what to do if you don’t get one), what to pack, and day hiking vs backpacking Mount Whitney!

Mount Whitney Overview

Mount Whitney is the highest mountain in the contiguous US, making it a highly sought-after trail for many hikers and climbers. Below is a quick summary of the trail and commonly asked questions about hiking or backpacking Mount Whitney!

• Mount Whitney Trail Length: 22 miles round trip, 11 miles each way
• Mount Whitney Elevation Gain: 6,663 feet
• Mount Whitney Summit Elevation: 14,505 feet
• Do you need a permit to hike Mount Whitney?- Yes! You must obtain a permit to either day hike or backpack Mount Whitney. From November through April, there is no quota for the number of hikers allowed; however, the trail is often snow-covered and impassible. From May through October, a permit must be obtained through the Mount Whitney permit lottery or by claiming a canceled permit.
• How difficult is Mount Whitney?- Mount Whitney is very difficult but not a technical climb without snow. The difficulty comes from the length of the trail and the elevation of the hike, which can make it more difficult to breathe and cause acute mountain sickness, high altitude cerebral edema (HACE), or high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE).
• Are dogs allowed to hike Mount Whitney?- No, dogs are not allowed to hike Mount Whitney.

Mount Whitney Permit & Lottery

You must have a permit to hike or backpack Mount Whitney! There is a quota of 100-day hiking permits, and 60 backpacking entry permits a day from May through November. You must enter the Mount Whitney Permit Lottery to obtain one of these permits! 

These permits are extremely competitive, so you may not get one first try. Remember that only one person per household may apply, or the permit will be rejected! You can put up to 15 people on one permit, but the more people in your group, the harder it will be to obtain your permit. You can add multiple date ranges for your permit, so try to add as much availability as possible to increase your chances of being rewarded a permit.

When to Apply for the Mount Whitney Permit Lottery

Key Dates for Obtaining a Mount Whitney Permit

• February 1 – March 1: Applications are open for the Mount Whitney Permit Lottery
• March 15: Mount Whitney Permit Lottery results are announced
• April 21: Deadline to confirm lottery reservation
• April 22: Unclaimed lottery permits are released

Mount Whitney Day Hike vs Backpacking Permit

You may be wondering which is best to apply for- a day hiking permit or a backpacking permit for Mount Whitney?

In my opinion, backpacking Mount Whitney is preferable because it allows you to spread your hike out over multiple days and enjoy the views. The downside is that you will have to carry much more weight for the majority of the trail! 

When applying, you can also select some of your date ranges for a day hike and some for a backpacking permit to increase your odds of getting one. 

How Many Days to Backpack Mount Whitney?

If you are awarded a Mount Whitney backpacking permit entry date (Congrats!), you can select your campsites and number of nights on the trail. We opted for two nights, which I thought was the perfect way to break it up! Three nights will give you more time if you want to go slower or have an extra night in case the weather is bad one day

What Lottery Permit Dates to Apply For?

To increase your chances of summiting Mount Whitney, you will likely want to apply for when the trail is most likely to be clear of snow, which is late June through October. However, the exact ranges change every year based on the snowpack, or snow may come early that year! 

Check the estimates for that year’s snowpack when you apply. If there is an above-average snowpack, the trail may take longer to clear. I summited in late August, which is usually the best time to go, and there were still reports of snow well into summer. We even encountered a bit near the summit!

Overall, July through September are the best times to hike and backpack Mount Whitney snow-free. 

What if I Don’t Get a Whitney Permit

If you’re unsuccessful in obtaining a permit from the lottery, log on at 7 AM PST on April 22nd to try and grab an unclaimed permit. Make sure to already be logged on to Recreation.gov beforehand! 

People also cancel their permits throughout the season. If you check periodically, you may be able to grab one later in the summer if someone cancels!

How to Train for Mount Whitney

To train for Mount Whitney, practice hiking uphill with weight in your pack. My favorite method was setting my treadmill to max elevation with 10-20 lbs in my pack. Mixing in cardio and balance exercises is also helpful. Work out your legs, core, and shoulders, which will all be used during your hike! I did a lot of lunges and step-ups leading up to my hike.

Ideally, start training 3 months or more before your hike to give yourself plenty of time, but if you can’t do that, even a month will help!

Sometime before your hike, test yourself by going on a long hike. Even if you don’t live near mountains, going on a 12-mile day hike will help you get used to being on your feet for a day.

Training Hikes for Mount Whitney

 If you can, go on nearby hikes with a grade similar to Mount Whitney (gaining about 600-1000 feet a mile). If you can hike at a high elevation, that would be even better!

Below are a few hikes that can help you train for Mount Whitney.

• San Bernardino– California
• Mount Wilson– California
• Dog Mountain– Oregon
• Saddle Mountain– Oregon
• Mailbox Peak– Washington
• Mount Si– Washington
• Any 14er in Colorado

Tips for Training to Hike Mount Whitney

• Start training early! Ideally, 3 months before your permit date.
• Go backpacking before your hike. If you are backpacking Mount Whitney, you don’t want to be testing out any gear while on the trail.
• Don’t risk injuring yourself too close to your hike. I was very paranoid about twisting an ankle the summer leading up to my hike and avoided doing anything too risky.

Mount Whitney Packing & Gear List

Packing for Mount Whitney can be intimidating because you may need more than you will need to pack for a typical day hike or backpacking trip. I brought more food than normal, microspikes, and a collapsible day pack.

What to Wear Hiking Mount Whitney

• Puffy Jacket– Even in Summer, the mountain summit is usually cold and windy. Bring a packable down or synthetic jacket.- Best Puffy Jacket
• Outer Shell– It doesn’t rain much in Southern California in the summer, but there is always a chance, and a waterproof outer shell protects you from the wind near the top.- My Favorite Rain Jacket
• Fleece– Layers are really important on this trail! Bring a warm fleece or other mid-layer.- Warm 1/4 Zip Fleece
• Moisture Wicking Shirt– For a base, I brought my favorite hiking tee.- Buy Women’s Hiking Tee
• Hiking Leggings– You will likely want long pants or leggings towards the top of the trail.- My Favorite Hiking Leggings
• Hiking Shorts– It was a hot day in summer when we started, so on the first day on the trail, I wore hiking shorts.- Women’s Hiking Shorts
• Hiking Boots– Bring shoes you can trust. For me, this means boots that give my ankle support and have good traction.- My Favorite Hiking Boots
• Hiking Socks– Just as important as your shoes are hiking socks that won’t lead to blisters.- Best Hiking Socks
• Microspikes– There is always a chance of snow on this trail. I used my micro spikes for a couple of brief sections, even in late August.- Hillsound Microspikes
• Camp Sandals– If you are backpacking, bring sandals to change into at camp.- Lightweight Backpacking Sandals
• Sunglasses– The sun glares harshly against the white rock of the Sierras!- Polarized Sunglasses
• Head Lamp– Always bring a headlamp when backpacking, and if you are day hiking, you will definitely start (and possibly end) the trail in the dark.- Head Lamp
• Gloves– Near the top, I was glad to have gloves to protect my hands while holding the trekking poles.- Buy Hiking Gloves
• Beanie– A warm beanie is a must at the summit.- Warm Beanie
• Sun Hat– For lower elevation, trade the beanie for a sunhat.- Buy Sun Hat
• Sunscreen– Most of this trail is exposed, so wear sunscreen even if you don’t feel hot!- Sunscreen

Mount Whitney Backpacking Gear

• Backpack– I brought my 48 L Osprey because I was sharing a tent and stove. If you are bringing your own, you may need a bigger bag.- 48L Women’s Backpack, 65L Women’s Backpack
• Tent– This is my favorite lightweight but sturdy backpacking tent.- My Favorite 2P Backpacking Tent
• Sleeping Pad– A good sleeping pad makes all the difference backpacking.- My Favorite Backpacking Sleeping Pad
• Sleeping Bag– Bring your sleeping bag, and if the forecast looks to be cold, you may need a sleeping bag liner as well.- Buy Women’s Sleeping Bag
• Camp Pillow– Ultralighters may not bring one, but I love having an inflatable pillow.- Camp Pillow
• Backpacking Stove– Bring a good stove and at least two ways of lighting it. We found our lighters struggled at higher elevation and needed matches.- Jet Boil Fast Backpacking Stove
• Water Filter– It would be hard to carry enough water for the entire trek, so bring a water filter to fill up as you go.- Buy Backpacking Water Filter
• Water Bladder– I love having a water bladder, but bottles work, too.- 3L Water Bladder
• Trekking Poles– Trekking poles are very helpful on this trail, especially at the 97 switchbacks.- Buy Trekking Poles
• GPS Device– Bring a GPS device, to avoid getting lost and also to call for help if needed. People are rescued on this mountain every year!- Garmin Mini 2
• Bear Can– A bear can is required on Mount Whitney, so properly store your food! You will want it to keep the marmots from eating all your food while you summit.- Bear Vault Bear Can
• Camp Mug– You may want a mug for camp coffee.- Collapsible Camp Mug
• Spork– I love using a long-handled spork to make eating out of backpacking meals easier.- Long-Handled Spork
• Compactable Day Pack– If you are backpacking, bring a small day pack as well for summit day, so you don’t have to bring your whole bag to the summit. 
• First Aid Kit– It’s very important to bring a first aid kit backpacking and hiking!- Lightweight First Aid Kit
• Sit Pad– A sit pad is a game changer for when you are relaxing at camp or taking a long break.- Nemo Sit Pad
• Wag Bags– You must carry out all your solid waste and toilet paper on Mount Whitney.- Wag Bag
• Kula Cloth– If you’re a girl, you may find it helpful to bring a Kula Cloth to minimize the toilet paper you use.- Buy Kula Cloth

Wag Bags on Mount Whitney

One thing to be prepared for when hiking Mount Whitney is that you must carry out your waste! This means all toilet paper and solid waste. To do this, bring a couple of wag bags with you!

I’m not going to lie, but I was weirdly nervous about this, but they are very easy to use. The waste gets double-bagged, and powder helps to soak up any liquid. Simply strap them to the outside of your pack when you head down.

This may seem gross, but it’s very important to follow! Waste cannot decompose at higher elevations the same way it does at sea level. Plus, so many people hike this trail a day that it would be disgusting if everyone left their poop on the mountain. If you aren’t prepared to follow this rule, then this trail probably isn’t for you.

Tips for Hiking Mount Whitney

Here are a few tips to help you plan your trip to hike or backpack Mount Whitney.

• Keep checking trail reviews leading up to your hike day! An unprecedented hurricane rolled through the week before our trek, and I was sure we would have to cancel, but recent reviews said the trail was still in good shape. This will also help you know what to expect for snow and water levels.
• Check the weather at the summit, not just the trailhead. The summit is much colder and can have a completely different forecast compared to the base of the trail.
• Camp for several days at elevation before starting your hike. We only camped for one night, but I wish we had camped two nights prior.
• Make sure everyone in your group has a copy of the permit. Technically, only the group leader is required to carry it, but if you get split up, it is a good idea for everyone to have a copy.

How to Get to Whitney Portal

The nearest airport to Mount Whitney is Bishop (BIH), but depending on where you are traveling from, it will likely be cheaper to fly into a bigger city like Los Angeles or Las Vegas and drive to the town of Lone Pine at the base of Mount Whitney.

To reach Whitney Portal, it is about a 30-minute drive from Lone Pine along Tuttle Creek Road and Whitney Portal Road. 

Bishop to Lone Pine

Los Angeles to Lone Pine

Las Vegas to Lone Pine

Where to Stay Near Whitney Portal

The night before your hike, you can either camp near Whitney Portal or stay at a hotel in Lone Pine. I recommend camping close to Whitney Portal since Lone Pine is only 3,700 feet above sea level, and Whitney Portal is above 8,000, which will help you acclimate.

However, if you decide to stay in a hotel or want to book a hotel after your hike, some options are below. 

Hotels in Lone Pine, California

• Whitney Portal Hostel– The most budget-friendly option in Lone Pine
• Portal Motel– Budget Motel in Lone Pine
• Best Western– A little pricier, but still affordable chain hotel

Camping at Whitney Portal

• Walk-In Campsites at Whitney Portal– If you cannot make a reservation at Whitney Portal Campground, there are several walk-in campsites near Whitney Portal and the Whitney Portal Store. I was worried these would fill up quickly, but we had no problem grabbing one the night before our hike. 
• Whitney Portal Campground– The reservable Whitney Portal Campground is located just before the trailhead. All sites are nonelectric, and there is no dump station. Only small trailers/RVs can be accommodated. 

Backpacking Mount Whitney Day 1- Getting to Camp

The first day backpacking Mount Whitney was a struggle, but it was so beautiful! We set off from camp around 7:30 AM, leaving from the walk-in campgrounds at Whitney Portal. Make sure to put extra food in the bear boxes provided at your trailhead instead of leaving it in your car! On the first day, we hiked from the trailhead to Consultation Lake, where we camped, passing Lone Pine Lake and Mirror Lake.

Lone Pine Lake

The first landmark on the trail is Lone Pine Lake. About 2.3 miles into the trail, you will reach a turnoff, and you can take a 0.1-mile walk down to the lake. This is also right before the Whitney permit zone, which means you can camp here if you didn’t get an overnight permit. 

After Lone Pine, at about mile 3, you’ll enter a nice meadow area. This was just over half of our distance for the day, and we stopped for our lunch break here.

Mirror Lake

Continuing, you will pass Outpost Camp about 3 miles before reaching Mirror Lake at mile 4. Between Outpost and Mirror Lake, we were first asked to see our permit, but rangers can check anywhere in the Whitney Zone. After Mirror Lake, the trail quickly climbs a series of switchbacks for about half a mile until you reach 11,000 feet. 

Personally, it was here that I really started to feel the effects of elevation. I had less than two miles to our campsite, but it was the longest two miles of my life! I used several energy gels and tried to rest in the shade as much as possible. Much of this stretch is also next to a stream, which is great for cooling off or refilling water. 

Where to Camp- Consultation Lake or Trail Camp

Finally, at 5.3 miles, we made it to our campsite!

There are two main spots to camp close to the summit- Trail Camp and Consultation Lake.

• Trail Camp– 5.6 miles from the trailhead, 5.4 miles to the summit, 12,000 feet elevation
• Consultation Lake– 5.3 miles from the trailhead, 5.7 miles to the summit, 11,800 feet elevation

By far, the most popular is Trail Camp. It is right before the 97 switchbacks, there is water close by, and there are many well-established campsites. The main downside is that it is crowded! 

We stayed at Consultation Lake about half a mile back and had it all to ourselves! It is a little further from the summit, but not by much, and much more scenic. The main downside is that the lake is hard to reach, so you will likely be camping above it without access to the lake for water. Instead, we walked a few hundred feet back to get water from Lone Pine Creek. 

At both sites, be on the watch for marmots. They have been known to chew through tents and packs for food, so make sure to have everything smellable in your bear canisters.

Backpacking Mount Whitney Day 2- Summiting Mount Whitney

Day 2 of backpacking Mount Whitney is summit day! We woke up at 2:30 AM at Consultation Lake with the goal of climbing the 97 switchbacks before sunrise. This was the best day of the trek! We summited at 9 AM, and I made it back to camp around 2:30 PM.

The 97 Switchbacks

Before setting out, make sure you have enough water to get to the summit! There are no spots to fill water after Trail Camp.

Just after Trail Camp is the start of Mount Whitney’s infamous 97 switchbacks! They cover about 3.3 miles and gain about 1,400 feet of elevation as you climb towards Trail Crest.

If I’m being completely honest, the switchbacks were not as bad as I had expected. While steep, the trail is never too difficult, and it is more of a slog than anything. I counted while we were going up to help keep track of our progress. Our group stopped every 10-15 switchbacks to drink water, eat a quick snack or energy gel, and check in with each other. This helped me mentally more than anything else because I always knew there would be a break in just a few more switchbacks. 

Trail Crest

After conquering the switchbacks, there is a section of uphill before you reach Trail Crest and continue along the backside of Mount Muir at around mile 9. Reaching this point felt almost as good as reaching the actual summit because I knew I was close, and the views opened up to sweeping peaks and alpine lakes like I’d never seen before! We hit the ridge just as the sun started to peak above the horizon, which made it even more magical.

For the majority of the rest of the trail, you’re hiking along the ridgeline with a steep drop-off to the side. There are a few small sections with drop-offs on both sides. If you are afraid of heights, this will likely be the toughest section for you! 

Along this section you can also start to see the summit of Mount Whitney!

About half a mile before the summit, snow blocked some of the path in a precarious spot. Hikers were either attempting the snow in microspikes or scrambling up the boulders. We did the latter on the way up and crossed the snow on the way down. 

Reaching the Summit

Seeing the stone hut at the summit of Mount Whitney was one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever seen! I had heard of people crying at the summit of Mount Whitney and thought it seemed overly dramatic, but I was surprised when my eyes started to water (and not just from the wind). With an exceptionally high snowpack year, a hurricane that same month, and fear of altitude sickness, there were several points where I thought a successful summit seemed impossible. Making it and proving to myself I’m capable of things I didn’t know possible meant so much to me!

It’s cold at the summit, but take your time enjoying it! There are some metal and wood signs that most hikers pose with, as well as a summit book to sign by the hut! The little hut offers some protection from the wind, although not many people can fit in at once. 

When you’re ready to head back down, it’s time to do the whole hike in reverse before relaxing at camp. Going down the switchbacks was far worse for me than going up because it was much hotter, so make sure to have sun protection.

Tips for a Successful Summit

Here are a few tips to give yourself the best chance of having a successful summit.

• Start Early- We started at 3 AM from our camp, which allowed us to witness sunrise on the way up, beat the crowd, and avoid hiking during the sunniest part of the day.
• Give yourself an extra day on your itinerary.– We considered only camping one night and summiting and returning to the trailhead on the same day. We decided against it, so if the weather was bad on our second day, we could try to wait it out and summit on the third. As it was our second day, we had perfect weather, but the third had crazy high winds.
• Bring lots of food!– Food is fuel, and you’re expending a lot of calories! Eat whenever you feel hungry, and remember to hydrate.
• Stay with your group or plan check-ins.– We ran into one hiker struggling to get down when he didn’t feel well, but his friend continued to the summit. Don’t do this! One symptom of altitude sickness is disorientation, and you should never leave someone alone who doesn’t feel good.
• Check the weather before you summit.– My Garmin allowed me to request a weather forecast even when in the backcountry, which helped me know what to expect.
• Don’t push yourself if conditions change or you feel unsafe!– The mountain will always be there another day. Listen to your intuition, and don’t make a bad decision because you have “summit fever.”

Backpacking Mount Whitney Day 3- Returning to Whitney Portal

On Day 3, pack up camp and return to Whitney Portal. We started heading down around 7 AM and made it to the car a little after noon. I’ve never been so glad to reach a trailhead and grab a cold drink from the little store! And don’t forget to buy your “I hiked Mount Whitney” tee shirt!

Mount Whitney Day Hiking Tips

If you don’t get a backpacking permit and plan on day hiking Mount Whitney, here are some things to keep in mind:

• Prepare for a long day!– It takes most people at least 12 hours to complete the trail in one day.
• Start early! Most day hikers start hiking long before sunrise or even the night before (starting around 11PM-2AM)
• Spend a few days at higher altitude.– This is even more important for a day hike vs. a backpacking trip because you won’t get the additional night on the trail. I recommend spending at least 2 or 3 nights at higher elevation before starting your hike to reduce the risk of altitude sickness.

Mount Whitney Altitude Sickness

I am not a medical professional, and you should always do your research on potential health risks! Learn more about altitude sickness here.

Altitude sickness is no joke and should be taken seriously. It can occur above 8000 feet. The most common and mild form is Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), but this can progress into High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) or High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). Both HAPE and HACE are deadly, so it is important to look out for early signs of altitude sickness. If you or someone in your party is noticing symptoms of altitude sickness, start descending immediately!

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) symptoms:

• headache
• nausea & vomiting
• loss of appetite
• fatigue
• trouble sleeping
• dizziness or lightheadedness.
• vision changes

Continually check in with your group to make sure everyone is feeling okay. Altitude sickness can also cause disorientation, so look out for odd behavior of anyone in your group.

How to Prevent Altitude Sickness When Climbing Mount Whitney

• Ascend slowly– Altitude sickness is more likely if you ascend quickly. This is one of the reasons backpacking Mount Whitney is so popular over a day hike. If you have even more time than the itinerary above, you can camp at Lone Pine Lake or Outpost Camp one night before continuing on to Trail Camp or Consultation Lake for a second night before summiting. 
• Spend at least one night above 8,000 feet.– Mount Whitney Portal is at 8,375 feet, so camping at the trailhead is one way to achieve this. More nights will also help.

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